False Summit Attempt: June 25 (Sunday)


As you can tell by the title of the journal entry, we didn’t try for the summit. I barely got any sleep between 7pm and midnight, though I did formulate a clear plan on how to rule Canada. I’ll have to fill you in on this master plan at some other point. Over night a storm moved in. Apparently lightning was all around us. To be honest after midnight I was dead to the world. At one point, Keli said, the entire Barrel shook with the force of one nearby strike. That’s a hint to anyone trying to break into my house in the future… yes I really do sleep like the dead. That’s why I have a heinous guard cat.

By this morning there was a lot of fresh snow here and at the summit. You can only just make out the Pastukhova Rocks at 4500-5000m because of all the snow. Keli has managed to find a place to rent skis for 350 rubles up here and she is off for a day in the snow. I’m off to take a walk up to Diesel Hut and beyond with my pack.

I guess the plan is to try for tonight, though after last night I’m not holding my breath. Oh yes, please note the date: it’s six months to Christmas.


So I walked up Diesel with Mike and Ahsan, wrote ìNewfoundland!î into the fresh snow, ran into Keli on her skis, met Anders at Diesel, and now am relaxing in the Barrel after lunch. The biggest change for our group is that Mike has decided not to go up to the summit. He says he’s enjoyed the trip immensely so far and doesn’t think a ten-hour hike on crampons etc. would be that enjoyable. He is going to stay the night and descend into the enviable comforts of the hotel. I’m going to be quite sad in not having him with us. Mike is good company and I think his pace would have moderated our climb.

We’ve all been making fun of Sergei and his skiing. He was coming down at the same time we were all walking down from Diesel and while trying a fancy move to say hi to Ahsan, he slipped and had a spectacular wipeout.

Oh and an actual black dude has arrived at the Barrels ñ the colour pressure is off me!


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